When the Mountains Come Tumbling Down
Continuing the journey into the mysterious Earth
For children and curious minds of all ages
Yogendra Deva
“Aaba, will geology be on your mind when you’re doing the
Char Dham pilgrimage?”
Aaba looked up. “Not consciously,” he said. “But after fifty
years in the field, the ground has developed a habit of poking its nose into my
affairs.”
Mihir smiled. “The temples will have competition, then.”
“Not at all,” Aaba said. “The temples lead. The ground gets
noticed… and waits its turn.”
He paused.
“Take Kedarnath, for instance,” he continued. “The moment I
land there, the Mandakini will almost certainly remind me of 2013—when it
dropped all inhibitions and came down the valley like Lord Shiva in Tandava.”
Mihir blinked. “Tandava?”
Aaba nodded. “Yes—the kind of dance one prefers to only hear
about.”
“Oh,” Mihir said. “You mean the infamous floods?”
Aaba looked at him. “How do you remember that? You had
barely arrived.”
Mihir shrugged. “One doesn’t need to visit the Moon to know
about it.”
Aaba smiled. “Well said, young man.”
He paused, then continued.
“Yes—a flood, but not just that. A debris flow—water, mud,
boulders… everything moving together, and very fast.”
“And that just… happens?” Mihir asked.
“Rarely just like that,” Aaba said. “It needs a recipe.”
“Recipe?”
“Kedarnath,” Aaba continued, “was one such recipe. Intense
rain, a glacial lake in a hurry, plenty of loose material, and a narrow valley
that did not believe in moderation.”
“And then?” Mihir asked.
“Then,” Aaba said, “the river stopped behaving like a river.
It became a carrier—of water, debris, boulders… everything the mountain chose
to offer.”
He paused.
“It came down with such force that entire stretches were
wiped out. Buildings, pathways, anything in its way… simply removed. Thousands
of lives were lost. Not because the river was angry—but because everything
aligned at once.”
Mihir’s expression changed.
“And that was a one-off?”
Aaba shook his head. “The Himalaya doesn’t believe in
one-offs.”
“Take the Rishiganga Flood,” he continued. “Different
trigger, same idea.”
“The glacier one?” Mihir asked.
“Yes,” Aaba said. “A sudden release high up—ice, rock,
debris—and the river below had no choice. It carried everything forward.
Hydropower structures in the valley were struck before anyone had time to
understand what was coming.”
He paused again.
“It was fast. Very fast. The kind of event where the
mountain moves first… and explanations arrive later.”
Mihir was listening more carefully now.
“And more recently,” Aaba added, “near Dharali. A
cloudburst-fed debris flow.”
“Same story?” Mihir asked.
“Same idea,” Aaba said. “Different valley.”
He paused.
“This time, it was not just a river misbehaving. Slopes gave
way, debris gathered, and within minutes, parts of the settlement were
overwhelmed. Homes that had stood quietly for years found themselves in the
path of something that had no intention of stopping.”
Mihir’s face tightened. “That bad?”
Aaba nodded. “Fast enough that it felt sudden. Familiar
enough that it should not have.”
He looked ahead, as if tracing the path in his mind.
“Water finds material. The valley provides the path. Gravity
does not negotiate.”
Mihir was quiet for a moment.
“These are not accidents?” he said slowly.
“Not entirely,” Aaba replied. “They are processes. The
Himalaya is quite consistent that way.”
He added, almost as an afterthought,
“We are the ones who occasionally act surprised.”
“And we still build there,” he said.
“With enthusiasm,” Aaba said. “Closer to rivers. On slopes
still making up their minds. With structures that assume the mountain will
cooperate.”
“And it doesn’t?”
“It does,” Aaba said. “Perfectly. Just not according to our
expectations.”
“And your ‘recipe’…”
“…is simply conditions coming together,” Aaba said. “Water,
material, slope, and space. When they align, the result is swift.”
“And avoidable?”
Aaba considered that. “Understandable,” Aaba said. “Which is
a good beginning.”
He leaned forward. “Aren’t these floods and debris flows the
only problem?”
“Not even close,” Aaba said. “Sometimes the mountain does
not wait for water.”
“Meaning?”
“Meaning,” Aaba said, “it simply comes down.”
“The whole mountain?”
“Not the entire mountain,” Aaba said. “Just enough to ruin
your day,” Aaba said. “The Himalaya is generous, but not that generous.”
“You’ve heard of landslides,” Aaba continued.
“Yes,” he said cautiously. “Those things that block roads
and delay holidays.”
“Those,” Aaba said, “are the polite ones.”
He looked at me carefully. “There are impolite ones too?”
“Oh yes,” Aaba said. “Some arrive without notice, bring half
a hillside along, and do not concern themselves with schedules, traffic, or
human plans.”
“Examples?”
“Take Malpa,” I said. “A quiet night. A village at rest. And
then—without ceremony—the slope above decided it had had enough.”
He was silent.
“It buried almost everything in its path,” Aaba said
quietly. “No warning worth the name. Just gravity doing what it does best.”
“And this happens often?”
“More often than we would like,” Aaba said. “Different
scales, different triggers—rain, earthquakes, weathering… sometimes just time.”
He shook his head slowly. “Then what do we do?”
“Ah,” Aaba said, “now we come to the part where engineers
try to justify their salaries.”
“We do not stop the mountain,” Aaba said. “That would be
ambitious, even by our standards. We try to work with it.”
“Meaning?”
“Most trouble begins when water starts wandering,” Aaba
said. “So we guide it—drains, channels, ways to keep it moving without
mischief.”
“Water with ideas sounds dangerous.”
“It is. Water with initiative is seldom good news.”
“And the slopes?”
“We persuade them,” Aaba said. “Retaining walls, rock bolts,
shotcrete… gentle reminders to stay where they are.”
“Polite negotiation with gravity?”
“Exactly. Civilised negotiations with uncivilised gravity.”
“And when persuasion fails?”
“We step aside,” Aaba said. “And avoid building there. A
surprisingly effective technology.”
“That sounds like wisdom.”
“It is,” I said. “Which is why it is not always followed.”
“And rivers?”
“We give them space,” Aaba said. “Not always happily, but
necessarily.”
“That sounds obvious.”
“It always does,” Aaba said, “after the event.”
“Anything else?”
“Yes,” I said. “We watch.”
“Watch?”
“Rainfall, slopes, river levels. Early warning systems. The
mountain rarely acts without hints—someone just has to notice.”
“It’s not about controlling nature?”
“No,” Aaba said. “It’s about understanding it well enough to
stay out of trouble.”
Aaba paused.
“And even then,” Aaba added, “we don’t always get it right.”
He tilted his head. “This is all Himalaya. Do other
mountains behave like this too?”
“Oh yes,” Aaba said. “Anything standing tall is prone to
coming down.”
“Whether it is the Himalaya or the Nilgiris…”
“…the ground still expects to be understood,” Aaba said.
He looked at me again.
“And you are going there,” he said slowly, “to relax?”
“Aaba is going there,” he said grandly, “to appreciate.”
“Appreciate what?”
“The temples,” Aaba said.
“The landscape.”
“And occasionally… the honesty of the ground.”
He shook his head, but he was smiling.
“You are impossible, Aaba,” he said. “For once, just relax
and do your pilgrimage. The mountains will survive without your commentary.”
“Perhaps,” Aaba said.
“But Aaba suspects,” he added, picking up his bag, “they
will continue speaking anyway.”
“And you will continue listening,” he said.
“That,” I said, “is the problem.”
I stepped out, still smiling.
The pilgrimage would, no doubt, be peaceful. The temples
would stand where they always have. The rivers would flow—as they often
do—calm, composed, almost polite.
But I knew better.
Because in the Himalaya, nothing is ever entirely still.
Slopes adjust. Rivers remember. Valleys wait.
And once in a while, when everything comes together—water,
rock, gravity, and time—
the mountains come tumbling down.
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